Each region and city in Italy has their own flavors and tastes to discover..and on a recent trip there I had a flavorful experience discovering the tastes that give Genoa its’ flavor…and secrets of it’s world famous pesto.

In Via San Bernardo, parallel to via Giustiniani, a small metal sign in a miniscule window is the front of Drogheria Torielli. But be careful, if the sun is very strong, you may miss it since the glare of the metal sign on the window will hide this little shop. But it’s name is known by gourmets throughout all of Italy. Why?? well it is here that you will find the best zafferano (saffron) both from Abruzzo and Sardinia. An assortment of the best coffee and teas and 200 types of medicinal herbs exotic and local and any spice you can imagine. Each spice is kept in a large glass jar.

The fragrant odor that fills the air is made up of thousands of different scents and you feel as if you are in a pharmacy instead of a spice shop. Many fo these spices are found in the artisan produced chocolates of Viganotti. It is there that a master chocolatier utilizes apparatus from the ‘800’s to produce sublime chocolate bars and chocolates Chocolates that are crunchy, soft, filled with nuts from Piedmont, covered with dark chocolate, filled with creams made from old artisan recipes and more. Eve nth shop itself has remained in some of its’ original style with its old wooden shelves and counter and the air filled with the smell of sugar, cocoa.

Pesto is a famous dish from Genoa,  with basil, grown famously there, it’s principal ingredient. And the microclimate of Genoa as well as the soil there is perfect for growing basil, but it is also the years of experience of the basil growers in Genoa that produces a  basil of superior qulaity.

This Pesto recipe is similar to that which is used for official tasting courses while in the Province of Genoa and is considered the official Pesto recipe of Genoa, sort of their secret recipe… however I have substituted ingredients that are more easily available for those which are local to Genoa which would be difficult for someone to acquire if not located in close proximity to Genoa. Also the original recipe is done in a pestle and mortar not a food processor as indicated here:

*1 large handful of Basil leaves only (stems removed)

*3 garlic cloves

*1 tablespoon of pinoli nuts

*2 tblsps of Parmigiana Reggiano (Aged for 24 months) grated

*1/2 tblsp of Pecorino Sardo

*pinch of sea salt

*7-8 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil ( I recommend an artisan extra virgin olive oil-Badia a Coltibuono)

Remove leaves from stems of basil. Wash and dry gently. Finely chop the garlic. Finely grind the pinolli nuts. Finely chop the basil. In food processor, place in basil, garlic, pinoli nuts, cheeese. Place in olive oil a little at a time. If the pesto is too thick add in a bit of water to thin out.

Mangia Bene, Vivi Bene….

Maria

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For more recipes get the book that won the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards as teh Best Italain Cuisine Book in America 2009- The Basic Art of Italian Cooking: Holidays & Special Occasions

copyright 2010, Maria Liberati

The city of Genoa is not necessarily known for it’s coffee bars but there are some special ones that are worth a visit when in the city.  On a chilly winter day and a dreamy ride to the historical city needed to have an espresso to wake me up  and ended up discovering more than just one coffee… bar…

For a perfect pause in the middle of a leisurely stroll in Genoa you can stop at the superb historical coffee bar in Superba, once frequented by many an illustrious person. A. Vedova Romanengo (via Orefici 31) opened its’ doors in 1805. Famous for their production of dried, candied fruits, candied chestnuts (marrons glaces), and fruit gelatines. Today, however many a passer by stops in to enjoy a great coffee at the beautiful bar made of marble, or to sip a tea at the large tea salon on the upper floor. At one time, you could find at any given time a stop here meant you may also catch a glimpse of someone like Giuseppe Verdi and members of the royal family who were passing by.

For another coffee stop try Bar Klainguti, piazza Soziglia 98, opened in 1826 by two Swiss brothers (Klanguti brothers). In back of the bar filled with luscious sweets you will also find a card signed by Giuseppe Verdi to Carl Klanguti. But today as always you will find a glazed brioche filled with marmalade that is absolutely unforgettable, to accompany a coffee enjoyed in the beautiful décor.

Began in 1876, Caffe Mangini (piazza Corvetto 3/r). Filled with mirrors and decoration in the Liberty style of design, one can partake of a scumptiosu breakfast of coffee and one of their magnificent pastries. I recommend the ‘torta Zena’ or the Sacripantina.

Caffe Degli Specchi (salita Pollaiuoli 43/r) opened in 1917. The famous Italian poet, Dino Campana, wrote in description of this place” enter in a grotto of porcelain, sip coffee, admire the glass and the fun begins..”

I am enjoying some time in Le Marche for a culinary tour and time at the truffle farm..I am getting ready to begi nmaking the truffles available for sale..will be ready soon..hada wonderful ,delicious time in Le Marche..more on that soon..

Also countdown to the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in Paris on February 11

The Basic Art of Italian Cooking:Holidays &Special Occasions will be presented with the Best Italian Cuisine Book in the USA for 2009.

Maria